Athens has had a quiet food revival over the last decade, but the city’s real culinary heart is still the neighbourhood taverna — paper tablecloths, a handwritten menu, and a kitchen that does maybe twelve dishes very well. Here are five we send guests to again and again.

1. Diporto — Central Market

No sign, no menu, no reservations. Diporto has occupied the same basement on Sokratous Street since 1887, and the formula hasn’t changed: chickpea soup, grilled sardines, a salad of revithia and a carafe of retsina from the barrel. Lunch only, closed Sunday. About 12 minutes on foot.

2. Karamanlidika — Psyrri

A deli-meets-meze bar specialising in the cured meats and cheeses of Cappadocian Greek tradition. Order the pastourma platter, the smoked aubergine, and a cold glass of assyrtiko. Always busy — book ahead for dinner.

3. To Mavro Provato — Pangrati

“The Black Sheep” is a 25-minute walk through the National Garden, and worth every step. The mezedes are inventive without being precious — try the smoked mackerel with sun-dried tomato and the slow-cooked lamb with orzo.

4. Klimataria — Theatrou Square

Old-school Athenian taverna with live rebetiko on Friday and Saturday nights. Stick to the classics: dolmadakia, stuffed tomatoes, and the house wine. The musicians usually start around 9:30.

5. Ama Lachei — Exarcheia

Set in the courtyard of a former primary school, Ama Lachei is a Cretan kitchen serving some of the best dakos and slow-roasted goat in the city. Vegetarians: the wild greens and the fava are exceptional.

A note on timing. Athenians eat late — 9:30 p.m. is normal, 10:30 p.m. not unusual. Arrive at 7:00 and you’ll have the place to yourself, but you’ll also miss the atmosphere.